Energy resources. Free solar energy will be able to provide warm water for household needs for at least 6-7 months a year. And in the remaining months, it also helps the heating system.

But the most important thing is that a simple solar collector (unlike, for example, from) can be made independently. To do this, you will need materials and tools that can be purchased at most hardware stores. In some cases, even what you can find in a regular garage will be enough.

The solar heater assembly technology presented below was used in the project "Turn on the sun - live comfortably". It was developed specifically for the project by a German company Solar Partner Sued, which professionally sells, installs and services solar collectors and photovoltaic systems.

The main idea is that everything should be cheap and cheerful. To manufacture the collector, fairly simple and common materials are used, but its efficiency is quite acceptable. It is lower than that of factory models, but the difference in price completely compensates for this disadvantage.

The sun's rays pass through the glass and heat the collector, and the glazing prevents heat loss. Glass also prevents air movement in the absorber; without it, the collector would quickly lose heat due to wind, rain, snow or low outside temperatures.

The frame should be treated with an antiseptic and paint for exterior use.

Through holes are made in the housing to supply cold liquid and remove heated liquid from the manifold.

The absorber itself is painted with a heat-resistant coating. Regular black paints begin to flake off or evaporate at high temperatures, which leads to darkening of the glass. The paint must be completely dry before you attach the glass cover (to prevent condensation).

Insulation is placed under the absorber. The most commonly used is mineral wool. The main thing is that it can withstand fairly high temperatures during the summer (sometimes over 200 degrees).

The bottom of the frame is covered with OSB boards, plywood, boards, etc. The main requirement for this stage is to make sure that the bottom of the collector is reliably protected from moisture getting inside.

To secure the glass in the frame, grooves are made, or strips are attached along the inside of the frame. When calculating the size of the frame, it should be taken into account that when the weather (temperature, humidity) changes during the year, its configuration will change slightly. Therefore, a few millimeters of margin are left on each side of the frame.

A rubber window seal (D- or E-shaped) is attached to the groove or strip. Glass is placed on it, onto which a sealant is applied in the same way. This is all secured on top with galvanized sheet metal. Thus, the glass is securely fixed in the frame, the seal protects the absorber from cold and moisture, and the glass will not be damaged when the wooden frame “breathes.”

The joints between sheets of glass are insulated with sealant or silicone.

To organize solar heating at home you will need a storage tank. The water heated by the collector is stored here, so it is worth taking care of its thermal insulation.

The following can be used as a tank:

• non-functioning electric boilers
• various gas cylinders
• barrels for food use

The main thing is to remember that a sealed tank will develop pressure depending on the pressure of the plumbing system to which it will be connected. Not every container can withstand pressure of several atmospheres.

Holes are made in the tank for the entry and exit of the heat exchanger, the entry of cold water, and the intake of heated water.

The tank houses a spiral heat exchanger. Copper, stainless steel or plastic are used for it. Water heated through the heat exchanger will rise upward, so it should be placed at the bottom of the tank.

The collector is connected to the tank using pipes (for example, metal-plastic or plastic) carried from the collector to the tank through a heat exchanger and back to the collector. It is very important here to prevent heat leakage: the path from the tank to the consumer should be as short as possible, and the pipes should be very well insulated.

The expansion tank is a very important element of the system. It is an open reservoir located at the highest point of the liquid circulation circuit. For the expansion tank, you can use either a metal or plastic container. With its help, the pressure in the manifold is controlled (due to the fact that the liquid expands from heating, pipes may crack). To reduce heat loss, the tank must also be insulated. If there is air in the system, it can also escape through the tank. The reservoir is also filled with liquid through the expansion tank.

This publication presents the results of extensive research by blogger Sergei Yurko. Shown are 3 solar collectors made by a craftsman with his own hands and the most effective of them is the so-called 3-film collector, it heats water up to 60 degrees. There is a simpler 2 film, and it is capable of bringing water to 55 degrees. The simplest and cheapest is 1 film, but it only provides heating to 35 or 40 degrees.

The cost of one square meter of these primitive collectors is approximately a thousand times cheaper than their factory counterparts, and therefore the question arises: what is so good about branded collectors that they cost a thousand times more than primitive ones, which anyone can make with their own hands in a few hours, spending meager money.

We will compare simple collectors with expensive factory models in terms of efficiency, economic feasibility and other characteristics. And this comparison is not always in favor of factory devices. Video on the topic: let's make the simplest solar collectors and see what they can do. We will also find out in what cases it makes sense to abandon cheap solar heat from these primitive structures in order to pay hundreds or thousands of times more to get the same effect from more expensive devices.

The personal interest of the author of the video in the topic is based on the assumption that factory solar collectors are an evolutionary dead end for solar thermal energy, since, for example, solar panels have fallen in price by more than a hundred times over the past few decades and the graph shows the process of price decline.

The idea arises that the evolution of solar collectors has gone the wrong way and therefore it makes sense to return to the simplest technologies.

The black film is the only thing that a 1-film primitive collector consists of, that is, water is poured onto the film and it is obvious that during the sun this water will heat up. You can buy it at the bazaar in any city. The master purchased three square meters for 15 hryvnia. The cost of the collector is 15 euro cents per square meter.

But it makes sense to add another one - a transparent film that will cover the surface of the heated water. The heating temperature increases radically as the second film stops the evaporation of water. It is sold at any market for greenhouses and because of this second layer, the cost of the collector increases to 35 euro cents per square meter.

But there is also a 3-film option and the additional film is also transparent; it will increase the cost of the collector to 55 euro cents per square meter.


Function 3 of the film is the same as that of the glass of a factory flat collector, that is, a layer of air several centimeters thick is formed between the glass and the black absorber; the air acts as a heat insulator.

How many films are needed to heat water well?

Experimental measurements gave unexpected results, since it turned out that in our case the result of using the third film is not as effective as in the case of a factory flat collector - the water heating temperature increases, but only by a few degrees. Moreover, our three collectors may have different designs. For example, 2 film - transparent polyethylene film, sold at markets in the form of a sleeve. Water is poured into the sleeve, and the role of the lower black film is played by the black surface of the roof of a high-rise building.


A similar study, but with a sleeve made of black film rather than transparent. If the second film is black, this option is preferable only if there is good water circulation through the system. The collector heated 100 liters of water to 66 degrees. Several design complications can be seen, including a 3-centimeter thick polystyrene foam sheet. but experiments have shown that thermal insulation under the collector will increase the heating temperature, but not radically.

An experiment in August with heating water at an air temperature in the shade of 35 degrees showed that a film collector with good thermal insulation heated the water to 63 degrees and at the same moment another collector heated the water to 57 degrees, although there was no thermal insulation under it and its first film lay right on the ground.

Additional features of the DIY garden collector

It is also interesting to note that during rain, a single-film collector performs the function of collecting rainwater, which may be relevant for some houses and areas. In addition, 1 film and 2 film collectors can act as a cooling tower at night, that is, they remove heat from the water used for cooling systems. They can be used in a mode where water circulates through them during the day and needs to be heated. and at night the collector cools the water in the tanks. During the day, water from them is used to extract heat. As a result, it heats up. and therefore the next night it must be cooled again with collectors.

It is interesting to note that the height of water in sewers can exceed several centimeters. they are both solar collectors and a hot water tank. That is, they work like the well-known black barrel on a summer shower.

But it is obvious that after the sun disappears, the water in the collector cools down. For this case, a collector with three layers of film, in which the water cools slowly, may be interesting.

On the picture. The cost of factory-made thermal collectors is a thousand times more expensive than the home-made ones presented.

Statistics on measuring the efficiency of homemade and factory-made solar heaters

On August 1, I conducted an experiment to measure the performance of film collector 2. Throughout the sunny day, I measured the water temperature and entered it into a table.

How efficient is a water heater with film?

In the following table there is an interpretation of the results obtained, in the column the amount of heat that the collector actually produced.


It is described in the photo note as calculated based on the results of temperature measurements. In another column is the amount of solar radiation that hit the solar collector. Moreover, it is important to note that it depends on the angle of the sun above the horizon, more precisely on the sine of this angle.

It is interesting that during this time period the heat production by the collector was greater than the amount of solar radiation. but there is no paradox if you pay attention to the temperature difference. At this time, the air temperature was higher than the water in the collector, and therefore it warmed up not only due to the absorption of solar radiation, but also due to heating from the warmer air. but at other time intervals the water was already warmer than the air. Moreover, the greater the temperature difference, the greater the heat leakage from the water into the surrounding air. the less useful heat the collector produces. We can conclude that once the water temperature reaches about 60 degrees, it will stop heating, since the mentioned heat leaks will equal the solar energy entering the collector.

The rightmost column of the table records the measured heating power of the collector per unit area; it can be compared with the column with the heating power of one square meter of a factory collector under the same conditions. Describes how to calculate powers. One square meter of a factory model has an advantage over the same area of ​​a homemade one only when working at high water temperatures. and if you need to heat water with a temperature above 60-70 degrees, then a makeshift collector will not be able to work at all. at the same time, 1 square meter of a homemade heat exchanger will produce noticeably more heat than one square meter of a factory-made one when the water temperature is lower than the ambient air temperature.

The results are explained by the energy characteristics of the 2 film collector.

And this is an assessment of the characteristics of other types of primitive heaters.

Approximate characteristics of factory flat-plate collectors presented in the passport.

On the Internet you can find such characteristics for almost any brand. The table shows that the branded heat exchanger has an advantage in this coefficient, due to which it is able to operate at high temperatures. but on the other hand, a homemade collector works much better than a factory one if you need to heat water at a temperature below air. For example, if you need to heat 10 degree water from an underground well during 30 degree heat. The fact is that it is more correct to call the coefficient not heat losses, but the heat transfer coefficient. Because if the water in the collector is colder than the air, then there is no heat loss in the collector, but on the contrary, additional heat enters it from the warmer air. This coefficient is interpreted so that if the temperature difference between water and air increases by 1 degree, then the heat exchange through each square meter of the collector increases by 20 watts.

This characteristic (optical efficiency) shows the efficiency of converting solar radiation into useful heat under conditions when the temperature of the coolant in the collector is equal to the ambient temperature. The note describes why the simplest collectors have this indicator slightly better than the factory ones. But this is the indicated efficiency of a new clean collector, and primitive ones are very sensitive to dirt. The text below describes how much dirt accumulates in them during use.

Dirt and bubbles in simple homemade manifolds

* A lot of different dirt comes into the water of a 1-film collector from the outside. In 2- and 3-film devices, this problem is expressed in a dust deposit on the top film, and after the rain or dew has dried, this dirt is grouped into opaque spots, which can very noticeably reduce the efficiency of the collector. But on the other hand, there are several simple ways to remove this dirt after rain.
* A lot of dirt also falls out of the water in the form of small flakes on the surface of the water or large flakes at the bottom. These precipitations intensify due to heating of the water.
* “White plaque” also accumulates (at the top of the 1st and bottom of the 2nd film), which significantly reduces the efficiency. It attaches to films very firmly, i.e. it cannot be removed with a stream of water (and it can be scrubbed off with great difficulty and not completely with a brush). Perhaps this is the precipitation of salts from heated water, perhaps these are the consequences of the decomposition of plastic films.
* Some of the dirt in the collector can be explained by polyethylene decomposition products due to UV radiation and high temperature. Typically, polyethylene decomposes into hydrogen peroxide, aldehydes and ketones. Basically, these are gases or liquids that are highly soluble in water. those. It seems they should not precipitate.
* The efficiency of the collector also decreases due to the large number of gas bubbles (up to several millimeters in diameter at the top of the 1st and bottom of the 2nd film), which are released when the water is heated (When heated, the solubility of gases in water decreases). It is interesting that when the collector is located on the ground, there are practically no bubbles on its 1st film (but they are on the bottom of the 2nd)
* Large bubbles may form under the 2nd film, as well as air in the folds. These areas quickly become foggy and this reduces efficiency.
* At the edges of the collector, the 2nd film may not adhere to the water: in such areas the bottom fogs up and therefore does not transmit solar radiation well.
* 3-film collectors may have fogging on the bottom of the 3rd film. This happens when the 2nd film is installed incorrectly (due to which steam from the collector can penetrate under the 3rd film) or due to its damage. In such cases, you need to install the 3rd film so that the wind slightly ventilates the space between it and the 3rd layer.

Contamination of sewer water due to the decomposition of polyethylene films

This decomposition will be due to simultaneous exposure to atmospheric oxygen, ultraviolet solar radiation and a temperature of 50-60 degrees. Polyethylene decomposes into aldehydes, ketones, hydrogen peroxide, etc.
When heated in the collector, each 1 cu. m of water, its polyethylene films will emit about 1 g of decomposition products (per 1 sq. m of collector there are about 100 g of the 1st and 2nd films, and during their service they will emit, according to very rough estimates, about 10 g of “products decomposition" and heat about 10 cubic meters of water). But it is not clear how much of this 1 mg/liter will go into water, and how much will fly into the atmosphere, precipitate at the bottom of the collector and hot water tank, turn into that “white coating” (which I talked about in the previous text), will not work out beyond the weight of polyethylene
In addition, it is unclear the beneficial effect on water purification due to its presence and heating in the collector (and there a lot of sediment falls out of it), as well as due to the presence of hot water in the tank. Thus, according to rough estimates, 0.1-0.5 mg/liter of polyethylene decomposition products will enter the water, which will be distributed among dozens of chemicals. substances with concentrations of 0.001-0.1 mg per liter of heated water. Since this is not far from the maximum permissible concentration of harmful substances, consultation with the SES will not be superfluous. For example, according to standard GN 2.1.5.689-98 “Maximum permissible concentrations (MAC) of chemicals in water bodies for domestic, drinking and cultural water use”:
– There is a limit of 13 pieces. aldehydes - MPC from 0.003 mg / liter to 1 mg / liter, for example, MPC for formaldehyde - 0.05 mg / liter, and the most stringent requirements for benzaldehyde - 0.003 mg / liter
– MPC of hydrogen peroxide – 0.1 mg/liter
– 3 pcs. exotic ketones also have restrictions with a maximum permissible concentration of 0.1-1.0 mg / liter

Conclusions:

1) If the water “stagnates” in the collectors, then the concentration of “decomposition products” in it will be several times or tens of times greater. Perhaps it is better to throw away such water.
2) It is advisable to use thinner films (they will produce fewer “decomposition products”).
3) Films should preferably be as stabilized as possible. For example, greenhouse is preferable to regular (not tinted) polyethylene; it is stabilized against the effects of UV radiation. Another example: high-density polyethylene degrades more slowly due to high temperature than low density.
4) The ratio of the collector area to the facility’s need (for hot water) is preferably as small as possible. That is, for example, with a daily requirement of 10 cubic meters. m of hot water, station with 50 sq.m. collectors produces water pollution (concentration of harmful substances) that is tens of times less than a station with 500 sq.m. collectors, including due to the lower temperature of water heating by collectors, which reduces the rate of polyethylene decomposition.
5) If the 2nd film of the collectors is black (and not transparent), then the water contamination should be several times less (since UV radiation penetrates only the top layer of the 2nd film).
6) You can think about this option for operating a solar station, when the collectors are heated
process water, which then transfers its heat through a heat exchanger to clean DHW water.

Which is better to use film for collecting solar heat - black or transparent?

The optical efficiency is noticeably reduced due to air bubbles and fogging of the second layer of the collector film. This means that the efficiency of the actually used device over its entire service life will be several tens of percent less. Therefore, it makes no sense to strive for expensive films with great durability, since after several months of use they will accumulate so much dirt that you will want to replace the films. Due to such problems with various dirt, we are inclined to believe that film 2 should still be opaque, but black.

This collector has a black film and there is no radical decrease in efficiency due to dirt. But it has a problem - the sun only heats the thin top layer of water. However, there are several solutions to the problem that will be obtained after research.

It is important to keep in mind that the wind increases the heat loss coefficient of primitive collectors, and in the case of single-film collectors, this influence of the wind can be radical, since heat loss from the collector increases due to water evaporation and can reach the point that even on a perfectly sunny day, but with strong winds and low humidity 1-film will be able to heat water only a few degrees above the ambient temperature. In addition, the coefficient k1 needs to be increased by several tens of percent if there is no thermal insulation under the collector and it lies directly on the ground, on the surface of the roof, etc.

In episode 2 of this film, primitive and factory collectors are compared on the topics of winter operation, ease of connection, economic feasibility, and areas of practical application.

Part two (about work in winter)

3, 4 series (maintenance)

– Experiment with pouring water into a sleeve of plastic film:

Good owners of private houses are always looking for opportunities to save on water heating and heating costs. This has become especially relevant lately, when utility prices have a consistent upward trend almost every quarter. Nature itself comes to the rescue with its inexhaustible source of energy - solar radiation. Applying the laws of physics in practice, craftsmen find interesting ways to save money by developing and assembling solar collectors, which probably any homeowner can do on their own - they just need to apply a little effort and skill.

A do-it-yourself solar collector can be made in multiple ways and from a wide variety of materials, sometimes even from those that are simply “lying under your feet.” They are constructed from ordinary old beer cans, plastic bottles, hoses or pipes, using glass, polycarbonate panels and other materials.

Some of the methods for manufacturing collectors will be discussed below, but first it is worth studying the connection diagrams - they, as a rule, are approximately common for any solar water heating systems.

Solar water collector connection diagrams

The effective operation of a solar water heating system depends not only on what the collector is made of, but also on how correctly it is installed and connected. There are quite a lot of options for connection diagrams, but you shouldn’t look for the most complex ones, since you can quite easily use the basic ones, which are accessible and understandable.

“Summer” option of hot water supply from a solar collector

This simple solar collector connection diagram is applicable both for heating water for and for domestic needs. If hot water is needed outside in a summer building, then the tank for it is also installed in the air. In the case when hot water supply is distributed throughout the house, and the storage tank is installed there.

“Summer” option for connecting the collector

This scheme usually provides for natural circulation of water, and in this case the battery-collector is installed 800 ÷ 1000 mm below the level of the tank where the hot water will flow - this should be ensured by the difference in the density of the cold and heated liquid. To connect the collector to the tank, pipes with a diameter of at least ¾ inch are used. To keep the water in the storage tank in a hot state, which it will reach from heating by the daytime sun, the walls must be properly insulated, for example, with 100 mm thick mineral wool and polyethylene (if there is no roof over the boiler). But it is still better to provide a permanent shelter for the container, since if the insulation gets wet from rain, it will significantly reduce its thermal insulation properties.

Natural circulation is not very good for use in a system with a solar collector, since it creates a weak inertia in the movement of water in the circuit. And if the battery and the tank are far enough from each other, then the water, having passed this path, will gradually cool down. Therefore, to increase efficiency, a circulation system is often installed. This option is suitable for heating water only in the warm half of the year, and in winter the water from the system will have to be drained, otherwise, when it freezes, it will easily burst T t rubles

“Winter” connection diagram for solar water heating

If you plan to use the solar collector all year round, then in order to prevent the water in the pipes from freezing during extreme cold, a special antifreeze, that is, a non-freezing liquid, is poured into the circuit instead. The scheme takes on a completely different form - an indirect heating boiler is installed. In this case, the antifreeze heated in the solar collector will pass through the boiler’s heat exchanger coil, warming the water in the tank.

A “security group” is necessarily built into this system - automatic air vent, pressure gauge and safety valve designed for the required pressure. For constant movement of the coolant, a circulation pump is usually used.

Solar heating option

When using solar thermal energy for heating a house, an indirect heating boiler connected to the collector is also used, as well as for additional heating of the coolant - one that runs on solid fuel or gas. On autumn or spring days, when the sun is able to heat the coolant to the desired temperature, the boiler can simply be turned off.

A solar collector is also a good help for heating a house

If the winters in the region are very cold, then you should not expect great efficiency from the collector, since during this period there are few sunny days, and the star itself is low to the horizon. Therefore, additional heating of the coolant and hot water is simply necessary. The only way a solar battery will help you save on fuel is that the boiler will receive not cold, but already somewhat heated water, which means you will need to burn less gas or wood to bring it to the desired temperature.

You also need to know that the larger the solar thermal collector is, the more energy it will be able to absorb. Therefore, in order for such a system to generate enough heat to heat a house, the size of the collector area must be increased to 40–45% of the total area of ​​the house.

Option for hot water supply and heating from a solar collector

To use a solar collector for both heating and hot water supply, it is necessary to combine both previous options in the system, and use a special boiler for water with an additional tank having a coil through which the coolant heated by the solar battery circulates. Due to the fact that the internal tank is much smaller than the main one, the water in it heats up from the coil much faster and transfers heat to the general tank.

The collector can be included in the general “heating - hot water supply” system

In addition, the boiler must be connected to an additional heating source - this can be either an electric boiler or a solid fuel heat generator.

The temperature instability created by the solar battery can contribute to overheating of the coolant or, conversely, to its too rapid cooling in the heating and water supply circuits. To prevent this from happening, the entire system must be controlled automatically. Installed in the wiring controller temperature, which can either redirect coolant flows, or turn circulation pumps on or off, or perform other control operations.

In the diagram presented above, such a temperature controller is designated as a regulator.

So, in general terms there is clarity with the connection diagrams (piping). But now it makes sense to consider several options for making solar collectors yourself.

Prices for solar collectors

Solar collectors

Solar collector made from a hose or flexible pipe

Those who have a private house with a garden or a dacha, of course, know that the water remaining in the temporary light mains after watering the beds quickly heats up. This positive quality of hoses or flexible pipes was used by craftsmen to create solar heat exchangers from them. It should be noted that such a collector will cost many times less than one bought in a store, but for the manufacturing process to be successful, some effort must be made.

On the roof there is a whole battery of solar collectors

Such a manifold may consist of one or several sections into which hoses tightly coiled in a spiral “snail” are laid and secured.

"Snail" - heat exchanger

This design can be called the simplest, both in design and installation. Its main disadvantage is that it practically cannot be used without the use of forced circulation, since if the pipe contours are too long, the hydraulic resistance will exceed the pressure force created by the temperature difference. However, solving the issue of installing a circulation pump is not at all difficult. And such a system installed in a country house will be an excellent help and will quickly pay for itself, including the costs (very insignificant) for powering the pump.

Similar collectors are also used to heat water in swimming pools. They are connected to a filtration system, which is necessarily equipped with a pump. Water, circulating through the collector pipes, has time to heat up before entering the pool.

In some cases By creating the entire system, you can do without installing a storage tank. This is possible when hot water is used only during the day and in small quantities. For example, a circuit of 150 m of pipe having an internal diameter of 16 mm holds 30 liters of water. And if five or six such “snails” from pipes are collected into a single battery, then during the day each family member can take a shower several times, and there will still be a lot of hot water left for household needs.

If anyone has any doubts about the effectiveness of such water heating, we recommend watching a video that shows testing a hose collector:

Video: efficiency of a simple solar collector

Materials for production

To make such a solar water collector, you need to prepare some materials. It is not at all impossible that some of them will be found in a barn or garage.

• A rubber hose or a flexible black plastic pipe with a diameter of 20 ÷ 25 mm is essentially the main element of the system in which heat exchange will occur during water circulation. The amount of hose will depend on the size of the solar panel - it can be 100 or 1000 meters. The black color of the hose is preferable because it absorbs heat more than all other shades.

It should be noted right away that metal-plastic pipes are not particularly suitable for making a collector, even if they are coated with black paint. The fact is that their plasticity in this case is insufficient - they break when bending with a small radius and thus, even if the integrity of the walls is not violated, the intensity of the water flow will decrease.

Hoses are sold in coils of 50, 100 or 200 meters. If you plan to make a large-volume battery, you will have to purchase several bays. If you plan to use, for example, 50 or 100 m of hose in each section, then you should not buy a whole 200-meter coil, it is better to purchase a ready-made measured hose. This will help save time during installation.

The hose can be laid not only in a round spiral, but also oval, and also in the form of a coil.

As a good alternative, you can try modern PEX cross-linked polyethylene pipes. They have good plasticity, but it’s not hard to figure out how to give them black color if it’s not on sale.

• If the slope of the roof on which the collector battery will be installed is steep, then special boxes are made from bars, plywood or metal sheets for the hose spirals. To do this, you will need bars 40×40 or 40×50 mm, plywood 6 mm thick, or a metal sheet 1.5–2 mm thick.

The blanks of the future module are treated (wood) or with anti-corrosion compounds (metal). Then a box is assembled from them into one or more spirals.

By the way, you can use old window frames as the sides of the box, onto which the bottom part is simply mounted.

• For pre-treatment of metal and wood, it is necessary to purchase antiseptic, anti-corrosion and primer compounds.
• Hoses (pipes) will experience considerable loads both from the mass of the coolant and from temperature changes and internal pressure. Therefore, they will try to disrupt the installation, deform, and sag, so it is necessary to provide special fastenings to maintain them in the initially specified position.

This can be a metal strip that is secured between the pipes with self-tapping screws.

Another option is a loose bundle with a tight cord or a plastic clamp-“tie” with a cross or crossbar. But still, this fastening method is more suitable for a plastic pipe than for a hose, since it can sag on the cord when the rubber expands. If a reinforced rubber hose is chosen for the collector, then this method is quite suitable for fixation.

Another fastening option suitable for a plastic pipe or reinforced hose can be nails with wide heads. They can be driven either into the bottom of the box (in this case it must have a thickness of at least 10 mm), or onto a kind of cross made of a block.

• It will also be necessary to prepare connecting elements for the hose or pipes. There are quite a lot of varieties of such fittings, but you need to choose exactly those that are intended for the one selected for production material collector.

In addition to such connectors, threaded fittings will be required to transition from a plastic or rubber pipe to a common metal one. Such a connection will be necessary if the collector consists of several modules.

To know how many connecting elements are required, you need to draw in advance a schematic diagram of the system being created and calculate their number on it.

• To combine all modules into a single battery, two collector - cut metal pipe. Through one of them, fixed at the bottom of the battery, cold water will flow into the heat exchangers, and in the second, fixed at the top, warmed water will be collected.

The upper pipe will connect to the storage tank, that is, go to the consumer. It should have a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm.

Battery installation

Having prepared everything you need, you can start working.

• First you need to treat all wooden parts of the future structure with an antiseptic.
• Next, if the bottom of the modules is made of metal sheet, it must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound. Typically, mastic designed to cover the undersides of cars is used for this.

Known to all motorists, “anticorrosive” is what you need

• After the compositions have dried on the prepared elements, single or common modules are assembled from them.
• Then the hoses are laid in them, for which the holders are secured.

• To allow pipes to pass freely through the sides of the modules, holes are drilled for them - in the upper and lower parts. Accordingly, the cold water inlet pipe is led into the lower hole, and the heated water outlet into the upper hole.
• If several modules are mounted vertically, or one common one, into which several pipe “snails” are also placed, one above the other, then the lower end of each of the spirals is connected to the upper outlet of the underlying one - and according to this sequential principle, the entire “column” is switched. The lowest end is connected to a common metal collector through which cold water will flow. All adjacent vertical rows are mounted in the same way - with a common connection to the supply manifold.

• Accordingly, the upper ends of the hoses of the uppermost horizontal row of modules are connected to a metal collector pipe through which hot water is discharged for consumption.
• The spiral-shaped collector circuit can also be mounted on a metal sheet installed not on the roof, but near the house, on its southern side, or near the pool, if it requires heating. In this case, the metal base will contribute to faster heating of water and heat retention in the pipes, since it has good thermal conductivity and heat capacity.

• Another option for a thermal solar collector can be laying the circuit on the roof plane in special boxes in long parallel rows along the entire length of the roof.

Prices for cross-linked polyethylene pipes

XLPE pipes

Video: a simple solar collector with a linear pipe arrangement

We enhance the effect with plastic bottles

The figure shows a solar collector made of hoses (pipes), the efficiency of which is significantly increased through the use of ordinary plastic bottles. What's the "trick" here? And there are several of them at once:

The effect of a plastic bottle as a casing - schematically

• The bottles act as a transparent casing and prevent air flows from taking away heat during absolutely unnecessary mutual heat exchange. Moreover, the air chambers themselves become a kind of heat accumulators. There is a greenhouse effect, which is actively used in agricultural technology.
• The rounded surface of the bottle acts as a lens, enhancing the effect of sunlight.
• If the bottom surface of the bottle is lined with reflective foil material, you can achieve the effect of focusing the rays in the area where the pipe passes. Heating will only benefit from this.
• Another important factor. A transparent plastic surface will to some extent reduce the destructive negative effects of ultraviolet rays, which neither rubber nor plastic “like”. This circuit should last longer.

To make such a solar collector you will need:

1 – Rubber hose, black metal or plastic pipes – as a heat exchanger.

2 – Plastic bottles that will become a casing around the circuit pipes.

3 - In the bottles, in their half, which will be adjacent to the base, foil or other reflective material can be inserted. The reflective part should face the direction of the sun.

4 – It will be quite easy to mount the stand from a block or metal pipe.

5 - Storage tank for heated water, which must be connected to the point of collection - tap, shower, etc.

6 - A container for cold water that can be connected to the water supply system.

Solar collector installation

The assembly of the option shown in the top diagram is as follows:

• To begin with, a stand is mounted from a metal pipe or bar. If it is made of wood, then it must be coated with an antiseptic composition, but if it is made of metal, then it must be treated with an anti-corrosion agent. It is necessary to calculate the length so that an even number of bottles are installed between the two racks.
• On racks, at a distance width of the bottles, horizontal strips are fixed on which additional fastening for the coil can be made. In addition, they will give the frame additional rigidity.
• Next, the required number of plastic bottles is prepared - the bottom part is cut off from them so that one bottle, with the side of the neck, fits tightly into the resulting hole.

• Take a hose (pipe) of the required length, which will be sufficient for installation coil circuit on a ready-made frame-stand.

Stepping back 100 ÷ 150 mm from the edge of the hose, mark the place where it is attached. Then, through this edge, the required number of prepared bottles is put on the pipe, which will be enough to completely cover the area to the opposite rack. The bottles are placed tightly next to each other, so that the neck of the second one fits into the hole cut in the bottom of the previous one.

• When the section of pipe for laying the upper section of the coil is completely covered with a box of bottles, its edge is secured on top of the left frame post. For fastening, you can use clip holders for plastic pipes with a latch of the desired size.

• If necessary, the position of the bottles is adjusted so that the foil half of them is at the bottom, near the collector frame.
• The pipe is then given a smooth turn and snapped back onto the clip.
• The next step is to put bottles on the pipe again, and it is fixed to the left rack. This pattern is continued until the entire frame is filled with the collector coil.
• Now all that remains is to “pack” the fittings through which the resulting collector will be connected to the cold water supply and to the hot storage tank.

This is what can happen in the end - it couldn’t be simpler!

Such a collector, as can be seen, absolutely not complicated in manufacturing, but it can become a good “helper” in a private home, taking on the functions of heating water.

By the way, solar energy can be used not only to heat water, but also to supply heated air to rooms. For example, you can find out how to make it yourself by following the link to a special publication on our portal.

Video - DIY solar power plant assembly

How to make a solar collector with your own hands?

Nowadays, people living in their own homes often have questions about how to save on heating and hot water. In search of these savings, they turn to the use of solar energy. That’s why today you can so often hear the question of how to make a solar collector with your own hands. After all, this device allows you to partially relieve the central boiler in the house from the function of heating water. A solar collector is a device that absorbs solar energy and converts it into heat. This thermal energy is transferred to the coolant. Typically, a classic collector is a metal plate in a wooden or plastic casing with insulation that absorbs solar radiation.

Before we talk about how to make a solar collector for heating a house with your own hands, you need to explain the principle of its operation.

Any solar collector has two working units - a solar radiation catcher and a heat exchange accumulator. The latter deals with the conversion of radiation energy into thermal energy. This energy is transferred to the coolant, which in most cases is played by water.

By design, solar collectors are divided into tube, flat and vacuum. The greatest efficiency is with vacuum ones, which have a thermos-type design. The pipes are inserted one into the other. The space between them is filled with vacuum, which provides excellent thermal insulation. Water acts as a coolant. This water can be used both for heating the house and for technical needs. It is not used directly as hot water for washing. It goes to the boiler, where it heats the water circulating in another circuit.

The solar collector does not consume fuel and does not emit carbon dioxide into the environment. Moreover, the efficiency of such collectors reaches 80 percent. If we talk about Russia, then on its larger territory the production of solar energy from the beginning of spring to mid-autumn is about five kilowatts per square meter. This amount of solar energy makes it possible to heat about one hundred liters of water in a collector with an area of ​​2 by 2 meters.

If you are going to heat water in the collector all year round, you will have to use a larger area solar collector. And it’s best if it’s vacuum. Then it will be possible to receive heated water all year round, removing the load from the main boiler and reducing energy consumption.

Flat collector device

When people organize solar heating of a private home with their own hands, they are most often interested in flat-plate collectors for heating water. In such devices, the heat sink (a metal plate with a copper coil) is located in the housing. The latter can be either metal or made of wood. Some heat sinks are made not in the form of a metal plate, but from a tin profile. Instead of a copper coil, black pipes or PVC are used. Of course, such systems are less efficient, but they are suitable for home use.

The heat sink is painted black, and thermal insulation is laid between it and the rear wall of the collector. The top of the collector body is covered with polycarbonate or durable glass.

The receiver converts solar energy into thermal energy and transfers it to water (or antifreeze). Glass or polycarbonate are required because they act as protection for the heat exchanger from the external atmosphere. At the same time, the glass must allow sunlight to pass through unhindered, which means it needs to be periodically cleaned from dirt and dust. In addition, all seams between the glass and the body must be reliably sealed. The efficiency of the solar collector depends on this. Otherwise, heat will escape through the cracks. In order to retain heat, the rear wall of the case is thermally insulated.

So, flat collectors attract those who do their own home heating with their simple design and attractive price-quality ratio. However, such a collector is suitable for use in regions with high insolation all year round. Or in the summer in central Russia. In winter, the efficiency of such a device drops significantly due to large heat losses through the housing elements. There are examples where people make a solar air collector with their own hands to heat their home, but we will not consider such devices due to their low efficiency.

How to make a solar collector for heating a house with your own hands?

What materials are needed and how much does it cost?

• Capacity with a volume of 200-300 liters (the price range is quite large, from 4 to 12 thousand rubles);
• Glass 2-3 square meters (about 1 thousand rubles) and a frame for it (about 500 rubles);
• Boards for the body. The thickness should be at least 25 mm, and the width can be 100, 120, 140 mm (the price of 1 board 3 meters is approximately 300-500 rubles);
• Fasteners for the body: connecting corners, nails, self-tapping screws;
• You can use chipboard or hardboard on the bottom to reduce the weight (200-300) rubles;
• Galvanized iron (300-400 rubles). You can put a profile painted black;
• Radiator pipes. Here the price will depend on what you will use: iron, plastic, copper;
• Thermal insulation material (packaging 500-700 rubles).

The price may vary depending on the size you will be holding. The process of manufacturing a collector in the general case will be described below. It is quite possible that you will make your own amendments to it. If you are going to make a solar collector from polycarbonate with your own hands, then the required quantity must be included in the price. Options with this material can often be found in summer cottages and in private homes.

Manufacturing of a solar collector

First you need to make a box. In addition to the walls, it is advisable to make spacers from boards and timber to strengthen it. The bottom is made of chipboard or hardboard. A thermal insulation layer needs to be laid on it. This can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam and similar materials. A tin sheet is laid on top. Next, the heat sink is installed and attached to the box. Before installation, all parts are painted matte black red. Choose heat-resistant paint. It is necessary to paint the tin sheet, radiator, connections, etc.

Then you need to arrange a water tank. It needs to be placed in a large container and insulated. To do this, some kind of heat-insulating material is poured between the walls. The tank will require a water chamber with a float. The principle of operation is the same as in a toilet cistern. It is usually located in the attic under the roof along with the storage device. The location of the water chamber should be one meter higher than the storage tank. The solar collector itself is placed either on the roof of the house on the south side, or in another sunny place. If it stands on the site, then the pipes that go to it will have to be placed in thermal insulation.

After this, the connection is made into a single system using pipes and connected to the water supply. It is desirable that the maximum number of pipes fit in the collector. Try to place at least 10-12. Filling the system is done from the bottom, namely, from the radiator. This way there will be no air locks. After filling the system with water, water will flow from the water chamber through the drainage tube.

You need to fill the tank, the water will begin to circulate and heat up. The heated water will displace the cold water, rising upward. As a result, cold water will again flow into the heat sink. When the float valve in the water chamber operates, cold water will again flow to the lower part. This is how circulation occurs and there is no mixing of water with different temperatures. It is better to shut off the water supply to the storage tank at night to avoid heat losses.

Almost every owner of a private home has to face problems with heating residential premises and obtaining hot water. Today, there are many different systems that allow you to successfully solve these problems. Alternative heating sources deserve special attention, in particular a collector that uses solar energy as fuel. This unit is extremely easy to assemble and profitable to use.

DIY solar collector

Basic information about homemade solar collectors

The average efficiency of homemade solar collectors reaches 50-60%, which is a very good indicator.

Professional units have an efficiency of about 80-85%, but you need to take into account the fact that they are quite expensive, and almost everyone can afford to purchase materials for assembling a homemade collector.

The power of an ordinary solar collector will be enough to heat water and heat living rooms.

In this regard, everything depends on the design features, which are determined and calculated individually.

Assembly of the unit does not require difficult-to-handle, hard-to-reach tools or expensive materials.

Tools for DIY solar collector assembly

1. Hammer.
2. Electric drill.
3. Hammer.
4. Hacksaw.

There are several varieties of the design in question. They differ from each other in efficiency and final cost. Under any circumstances, a homemade unit will cost an order of magnitude cheaper than a factory model with similar characteristics.

One of the most optimal options is a vacuum solar collector. This is the most budget-friendly and easiest-to-use option.

Solar collector design

Solar collector design

The units in question have a fairly simple design. In general, the system includes a pair of collectors, a front chamber and a storage tank. The operation of the solar collector is carried out according to a simple principle: as the sun's rays pass through the glass, they are converted into heat. The system is organized in such a way that these rays are not able to leave the confined space.

The installation operates on the thermosiphon principle. During the heating process, the warm liquid rushes upward, displacing cold water from there and directing it to the heat source. This allows you to even avoid using a pump, because... the liquid will circulate on its own. The installation accumulates solar energy and stores it within the system for a long time.

Components for assembling the installation in question are sold in specialized stores. At its core, such a collector is a tubular radiator installed in a special wood box, one of the edges of which is made of glass.

To manufacture the mentioned radiator, pipes are used. The optimal material for making pipes is steel. The inlet and outlet are made from pipes traditionally used in the installation of water supply systems. Typically ¾ inch pipes are used, 1 inch products also work well.

The grate is made from smaller pipes with thinner walls. The recommended diameter is 16 mm, the optimal wall thickness is 1.5 mm. Each radiator grille must include 5 pipes, each 160 cm long.

Important nuances of assembling a collector with your own hands

The first stage is assembling the box. To assemble the previously mentioned box, wooden boards about 12 cm wide and 3-3.5 cm thick are used. The bottom is made of hardboard or plywood sheet. The bottom must be reinforced with slats measuring 5x3 cm. Select the length of the slats according to the size of the bottom.

The second stage is insulation of the box. The box needs high-quality insulation. The best and most convenient option to use is foam boards. Mineral wool also works well. The insulation is placed on the bottom of the box.

The third stage is the arrangement of the radiator box. The laid insulation must be covered with a layer of galvanized sheet metal. Clamps are used to connect the radiator and the laid sheet of metal. Pre-paint the radiator pipe and metal decking with matte black paint.

The outside of the box is painted white, and the glass is sealed using compounds specially designed for such tasks. This will minimize heat loss. The pipes are connected in the standard manner using tees, couplings, and angles. The pipes used in assembling the manifold are connected manually without much effort.

The fourth stage is the preparation of the storage tank. A tank is responsible for the accumulation of heat in the system under consideration, the capacity of which can be in the range of 200-400 liters. Select the specific volume based on your personal water needs. The tank can be made from a barrel. If you can't find a suitable barrel, use pipes.

The tank needs insulation. It is best to install it in a box made of plywood sheets or wooden boards, and fill the space between the walls of the box and the container with sawdust, foam plastic or other heat-insulating material.

The fifth stage is the preparation of the fore-chamber. The system in question includes a unit called an advance chamber. The main function of this device is to pump up the constant excess pressure required for the full operation of the system based on the solar collector. The anterior chamber is made from a suitable container of 35-45 liters. A can is perfect. Additionally, the unit is equipped with a feeding device to automate the operation.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the unit

Coolant circulation diagram

The first stage is the installation of the drive and front camera. The mentioned units are located in the attic of the house. Make sure the ceiling at the installation location can support the weight of the water containers. Install the front camera next to the drive. Do this so that the liquid level in the fore-chamber is approximately 100 cm higher than the water level in the storage tank.

The second stage is choosing a place to install the solar heater. The unit is fixed on the southern wall of the building. It is important to maintain the correct slope of the heater to the horizon. The optimal value is 45 degrees. The collector must be attached to the house so that the solar panels look like an extension of the roof.

The third stage is the connection of individual elements. To complete this task, you need to buy inch and half-inch steel pipes. You will use half-inch ones to connect high-pressure elements of the system - from the water inlet to the anterior chamber. Inch pipes are used in the low-pressure part.

It is important that the connections are airtight; air pockets are unacceptable in this case.

The pipes must first be painted white or another light color. A layer of heat-insulating material is fixed on top of the paint. In this case, foam rubber is optimal. A layer of polyethylene is wound over the insulation, and then a woven tape. Finally, the pipes are painted white again.

The fourth stage is filling the system with liquid. Water must be supplied through special drainage valves installed at the bottom of the radiators. This will avoid the formation of air locks. When water begins to flow from the drainage, the operation can be considered complete.

The fifth stage is connecting the front camera. This unit must be connected to a water supply inlet. After connection, open the flow valve. You will see that the amount of water in the forechamber will begin to decrease.

The advantage of such a solar collector, assembled with your own hands, is that it can heat water even in cloudy weather.

At night, the air temperature becomes lower than the temperature of the heated water. Under such conditions, the collector will begin to heat the environment and generally operate in the reverse mode. To avoid this, the system is equipped with a valve that prevents the possibility of reverse circulation. It will be enough to simply turn off this valve in the evening, and the energy will be stored in the system.

If the thermal conductivity of the collector is not high enough, it can be increased by adding sections. The design will allow you to do this without any difficulty.

You can, of course, artificially adjust the direction of solar panels in relation to the Sun by placing additional structures under the collector

Thus, there is nothing difficult in assembling a solar heater yourself. Such work also does not require large financial investments, but it is strongly recommended to buy only high-quality materials from well-known manufacturers. Approach your work with maximum responsibility, do not violate the recommendations given, and you will receive an excellent source of heat and hot water, powered by free energy. Good luck!

DIY solar collector - installation instructions!

Learn how to make a solar collector with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions describing the main technological stages. Photo + video.

Making solar collectors with your own hands

Solar collectors (water heaters) They are widely used for heating water and heating houses using solar energy, not only in the summer, but throughout the year. In this section you will learn how to make a solar collector (water heater) with your own hands from scrap materials and at minimal cost.

How to make a high-efficiency solar collector from a metal-plastic pipe

The efficiency of a homemade solar collector can be significantly increased, making minor modifications to the design, namely installing on pipes absorbers. Thus, even using a metal-plastic pipe as a heat exchanger, you can build a solar collector that can boil water in sunny weather.

Which glass to choose when making a solar collector with your own hands

The efficiency of a solar collector directly depends on the glazing used.

Glazing must have the following properties:

– Be light in weight

– UV resistance

– Resist elevated temperatures

Choosing insulation in the manufacture of a solar collector

There are many different brands and types of insulation. They differ in their thermal insulation properties, physical characteristics, cost, and ease of use. You will be presented with a list of insulation materials that are most common on the market and which of this list can be used.

Selection of pipes for the manufacture of a solar collector heat exchanger

Today, manufacturers provide the market with a wide range of pipes from different materials. All these pipes have their own advantages and disadvantages according to their indicators. Here we will consider pipes that are most optimally suited for the manufacture of collectors and water supply distribution.

Making your own solar water heater

During production DIY solar water heater The goal was to provide warm water for a summer shower, in which, with frequent use, the water simply did not have time to heat up even with strong solar activity.

Calculation of solar collector area

When building a hot water supply system using solar collectors, many people ask the question: " How much collector area should be used?"In order not to frighten you with complex formulas and calculations, I will offer a diagram by which you can easily calculate the approximate area of ​​the collector for your needs.

How to make a solar concentrator from flat mirrors

The advantage of solar concentrators is that they can convert water into steam (depending on the speed of the water in the heat exchanger). Why is this necessary? But this is necessary, for example, for steaming concrete and wood products, starting a steam engine, etc.

Manufacturing a solar collector with a copper heat exchanger

If your roof is covered with black roofing felt or dark-colored asphalt shingles, you may be able to save money on the thermal insulation of the rear wall and make a solar collector (water heater) with your own hands. Of course, the area where the solar collector will be installed must face the direction of the sun.

DIY solar concentrator for heating water

Basics dignity solar concentrator (reflector) is that they can achieve higher efficiencies. By focusing a high density of solar energy at one point, they are capable of turn water into steam in a matter of seconds.

How to make a 2kW solar collector for a swimming pool

After building a budget pool, the idea came to build a solar collector that would be able to heat 10 cubic meters of water to a comfortable temperature for swimming. For this purpose, a collector with an area of ​​4 sq.m. was built. and an approximate power of 2 kW.

Making a solar collector from an old window frame

Many of us have long replaced old wooden windows with metal-plastic ones. And such a replacement is largely related not to the exterior, but to the preservation of heat in our apartments. We simply threw the old window frames and glass into the trash bin as unnecessary. Although, on the other hand, the window frame (which opens with a book) can still serve us well as a solar collector (water heater).

Basic connection diagrams for solar collectors

The efficiency of a solar collector depends not only on the materials from which it is made, but also on how correctly it is installed and mounted. The connection diagram largely depends on the requirements for the solar collector. Since there are a great many connection variations, I will give only the main, basic diagrams.

How to make a solar collector from plastic bottles

During the summer heat, mineral water, drinks, juices, etc. are in greatest demand among the population. However, without noticing it, we are increasing the amount of waste on the planet by throwing used plastic bottles and tetra packs into the trash. On the other hand, this “garbage” can be used for your own benefit, i.e. make a solar collector from plastic bottles. Thus, we will get free hot water, spending a minimum of money on it, and make our planet a little cleaner.

DIY solar collector from an old refrigerator

To obtain hot water using solar energy, you can assemble with your own hands simple solar collector from materials that can easily be found at your home. yard At the same time, manufacturing costs will be very minimal. As heat exchanger(the basics of a solar collector), we will use a capacitor from an old refrigerator (a grill that is attached to the back of the refrigerator).

Solar water heater from an old electric boiler

Many faulty electric boilers are simply thrown into a landfill, although on the other hand, the boiler can be given a second life, and make your own solar water heater from it using free solar energy to heat water.

How to make a flat-plate solar collector from polypropylene

How to make a large solar collector from PEX pipe

Often, the construction of one large collector is cheaper in price than the construction of smaller, but larger numbers. It's about construction of a solar collector from a plastic pipe, only more impressive in size.

How to make a solar collector from hoses

Many people have noticed that if you leave a hose with water in the sun, then after turning on the water, very hot water flows from the hose (especially if the hose is dark in color). So why don't we make a solar collector using a hose or polyethylene pipe simply rolled into a ring.

Making solar collectors with your own hands

Solar collectors (water heaters) are widely used for heating water and heating houses using solar energy, not only in the summer, but throughout the year. You will learn how to make a solar collector (water heater) with your own hands from scrap materials and at minimal cost.

We tell you how to make a solar collector for heating with your own hands

All kinds of solar collectors are developed using the latest technologies and modern materials. Thanks to such devices, it happens solar energy conversion. The resulting energy can heat water, heat rooms, greenhouses and greenhouses.

Devices can be mounted on walls, roofs of a private house, greenhouse. For large rooms, it is recommended to purchase factory-made devices. Now solar systems are constantly being improved. Therefore, solar panels increase in price, attracting the attention of consumers. The cost of factory-made devices is almost equal to the financial costs spent on their manufacture. The price increase occurs only due to the financial markup of resellers. The cost of the collector is commensurate with the cash costs that will be required to install a classic heating system.

Today, the production of such devices is gaining increasing popularity. It's worth noting that uh The effectiveness of a homemade device is much inferior in quality to factory devices. But a do-it-yourself unit can heat a small room, private house or outbuildings easily and quickly.

Principle of operation

But the principle of water heating is identical - all devices operate according to the same designed scheme. In good weather, the sun's rays begin to heat the coolant. It passes through thin elegant tubes, falling into a tank of liquid. The coolant and tubes are placed along the entire inner surface of the tank. Thanks to this principle, the liquid in the apparatus is heated. Later, the heated water is allowed to be used for domestic needs. Thus, you can heat the room and use the heated liquid for shower cabins as hot water supply.

The water temperature can be controlled by developed sensors. If the liquid cools too much, below a predetermined level, a special backup heating will automatically turn on. The solar collector can be connected to an electric or gas boiler.

An operating diagram suitable for all solar water heaters is presented. This device is perfect for heating a small private house. To date, several devices have been developed: flat, vacuum and air devices. The operating principle of such devices is very similar. The coolant is heated from the sun's rays with further energy release. But there are a lot of differences in work.

Flat-plate collector

Heating of the coolant in such a device occurs thanks to a plate absorber. It is a flat plate of heat-intensive metal. The upper surface of the plate is painted in a dark shade with a specially developed paint. A serpentine tube is welded to the bottom of the device.

The dark selective paint covering the top surface of the plate absorbs the powerful rays of the sun. Sun reflection is reduced to a minimum. The absorbed energy warms up the coolant under the absorber. To minimize heat loss, you can use thermal insulation of the housing using tempered glass. This material contains a minimal amount of iron oxides. The glass is mounted above the absorber. The device serves as the top cover of the housing. Tempered glass also creates a “greenhouse effect” in the form of an insulating greenhouse. This significantly increases the heating of the absorber, increasing the temperature of the coolant. This device is perfect for heating a private home. Also the unit installed in greenhouses, shower cabins, garden greenhouses and greenhouses.

Vacuum manifold

Compared to the flat device, the vacuum manifold has a different design. The main working elements are considered to be evacuated tubes, as well as coolant. Thanks to the highly selective coating, the glass surface of the device absorbs a large amount of sun. Solar energy begins to quickly heat the internal coolant. Heat loss is eliminated using a vacuum layer. The accumulated heat passes through the heat collector, moving towards the device system itself.

If we consider the work as a whole, then the vacuum manifold has the highest productivity compared to a flat device. The unit can be installed on the roof of a private house, in greenhouses, greenhouses, hotbeds, and summer showers.

Air manifold

Air manifold is one of the most successful developments. But air-type solar panels are very rare. Such devices are not suitable for home heating or hot water supply. They are used for air conditioning. The coolant is oxygen, which is heated by solar energy. Solar panels of this type are identified by a ribbed steel panel painted in a dark shade. The operating principle of this device is a natural or automatic supply of oxygen to private homes. Oxygen is heated under the panel using solar radiation, thereby creating air conditioning.

Pros of solar systems

• Reduce energy consumption by at least 2-3 times;
• Due to the severe depletion of natural resources, DIY units can become indispensable heating sources;
• It is allowed to add additional substances to the air apparatus to impart specific aromatic properties. Antifreeze is added to the water of the flat and vacuum manifold. They help prevent liquids from freezing at low atmospheric temperatures;

Disadvantages of solar systems

• Recent introduction of devices into operation;
• Impossibility of installing units in some regions due to time zone, length of daylight hours, location of the area, weather conditions;
• In most cases, a DIY device is recommended to be used only as an additional source of energy. It is not practical to use solar panels for complete heat generation;

Solar installation connection diagram:

What will you need?

In order to make an air, flat or vacuum unit with your own hands, will be needed:

• Temperature sensors located in the device and storage device;
• Adapters for connecting the system to cold water supply;
• Drain for hot water supply;
• Special temperature sensors for heating liquid;
• Expansion tank;
• Circulation pump;
• Solar regulator;

Construction drawing:

Assembly instructions

First of all it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the future device. Therefore, it is recommended to carefully calculate the area on which the device will be located. An important factor in the calculation is determining the intensity of solar radiation. In the coldest regions, the solar energy is weakened, in the southern regions of the country it is increased. The location of the house, greenhouse or other sources in which the unit will be located also affects the calculations. Another important fact is the material of the heating circuit. The lower the material index, the lower the temperature of the air or water flow.

Build process

Main stages of work:

• Box production;
• Production of a special heat exchanger, as well as a radiator;
• Production of drive and front camera;
• Aggregation;

Commissioning;

Box production

For the box you will need an edged board 30x120 mm ±5 mm. The bottom of the box is made of textolite, equipped with special ribs. Thanks to the foam, good thermal insulation is created. The bottom is covered with galvanized sheet.

Heat exchanger production

• You will need metal tubes. The length of the pipes must be at least 1.6 m. Quantity: 15 pieces. It is also necessary to use two inch pipes 0.7 m long.
• In thicker tubes, small holes should be drilled with identical diameters to the smaller tubes. Holes will be needed to install pipes. The drilled holes must be coaxial, located on the same axis. Their maximum step should be no more than 4.5 cm.
• All tubes necessary for operation must be assembled into a whole structure. For reliability, they are welded using a welding machine.
• A heat exchanger is mounted on the galvanized sheet covering the bottom of the box. For reliability, it can be secured with metal clamps or steel clamps.
• For better absorption of rays, the bottom of the structure is painted a dark shade. The external components of the structure are painted in a light shade. A white shade is perfect. It helps reduce heat loss.
• A cover glass is placed near the partitions. The joints are carefully sealed.
• The average distance between structural elements is 11 mm.

Storage drive production

It is allowed to use both a one-piece barrel and various welded structures. The storage tank should be insulated from heat loss. The anterior chamber must be equipped with a swivel valve - a mechanism that supplies liquid. The volume of the anterior chamber should be 36-40 liters.

Aggregation

• First of all, the drive and front camera are installed. The height of the water in the front chamber should be 0.8 m higher than in the storage tank. It is necessary to consider a liquid shut-off device.
• The collector intended for heating is fixed to the frame of the building. A device designed to heat water can be placed on the roof of a greenhouse, conservatory or home. To place the device, choose the south side. The installation should have an inclination to the horizon of 35-40°.
• The distance between the heat exchanger and the storage tank should be no more than 50-70 cm. Otherwise, the loss of solar energy will be greatly noticeable.
• The collector should be located below the drive, and the drive below the anterior chamber.

Commissioning

For final assembly, you will need special shut-off valves in the form of various adapters, bends or fittings. The high-pressure sections of the solar array are connected with special pipes with a diameter of 0.5 inches. For low-pressure areas, it is recommended to use pipes with a diameter of 1 inch.

• Using the lower drainage hole, the structure is filled with water;
• A front camera is attached to the device;
• The fluid levels are adjusted;
• It is recommended to check the battery for water leaks;

After assembling and checking the design, you can begin operation;

Manufacturing or purchasing a ready-made solution?

Homemade devices designed for heating and water heating have low efficiency. Therefore, such structures are recommended for heating a greenhouse, flower greenhouse, or small private room. An air, flat or vacuum device can significantly increase the level of comfort in a country house or country house. The devices reduce the cost of electricity consumed by conventional power sources. Thanks to the introduction of new technologies, the use of solar systems is gaining momentum. But for cold regions of the country, factory designs should be purchased.

DIY solar collector for heating

We are talking about the possibility of making a solar collector for heating with your own hands. Thanks to such devices, solar energy is converted.

Do-it-yourself solar collector: types, operating principles and photos

The use of solar energy is no longer new. It can be used for local heating of water, for example, in a country house. Such heating can also be used for heating, but the cost of additional equipment will be quite high. Building a solar collector with your own hands is not fantastic!

To use solar energy, special collectors are used. There are several device options for different purposes. There are these types of elements:

Flat-plate collector

They can be called a solar panel. It is profitable and easy to create a flat solar collector with your own hands. There is an absorber panel in the center of this device. This panel is made of metals that conduct heat well, most often copper or aluminum. In order for the collector to perform its function well, namely to absorb solar energy as much as possible and convert it into heat with minimal losses, a special composition must be applied to its surface. Its surface is protected by glass with a minimal iron content. This glass has good transmission capacity, minimal light reflection and is good protection from environmental influences. The absorber has a casing along its perimeter to protect it from mechanical influences; it is usually made of steel or aluminum. The housing and lower part of the collector are thermally insulated. The flat element is capable of transferring heat to the coolant that is located in it. It can be plain water or antifreeze.

The flat collector can be placed in any position. It is usually mounted on the roof, but it will work just as well anywhere else. You can build such a solar collector with your own hands without large investments.

If we talk about factory elements, flat ones can be of standard sizes, with an area of ​​up to 2.5 m2.
If more power is required, several standard panels can be installed together. They will form a single solar heat system.

Flat-plate collectors have the advantage of being cheaper than their vacuum counterparts. But at low ambient temperatures, such collectors lose a lot of energy and the efficiency level decreases. Therefore, for use in summer, a flat collector will be sufficient, but in winter it will be almost twice as inferior to a vacuum collector.

Such a collector consists of tubes with a vacuum inside them. The structure of each tube resembles that of a thermos, which is based on a copper rod, the shell of such a thermos is a milk glass flask, and there is a vacuum between them. The inner shell of the tube is coated with a special black paint, and the outer glass is transparent. The tubes are connected using a connecting module.

The price category of this type of collectors is higher than the analogues of flat models, but the advantage is determined by their benefits of use in winter. You can make solar collectors for your home using scrap materials. They can be from other devices, for example, from a refrigerator. There should be no difficulties in repairing vacuum-type devices. If one of the tubes fails, the collector itself will continue to operate. But the heat output will be less.

Vacuum elements can be divided into:

It is more difficult to install a vacuum solar collector with your own hands than a flat one. It will be a little more expensive, but you need to evaluate the advantages of a vacuum before installing it.

It is not so difficult to build a solar collector with your own hands. But it is worth remembering that it will not be as effective as a similar one produced in an industrial environment. It is necessary to make an appropriate calculation of the benefits and effectiveness of this device.

How to make a solar collector with your own hands?

In order to begin constructing such a solar heat storage device, you need to independently perform the following steps:

• prepare the basis for the future collector;
• prepare the radiator for installation;
• prepare a heat storage device;
• install the collector directly.

The basis of the device can be an edged board with dimensions from 25-100 mm to 35-135 mm. You should make a box of suitable size from them, insulate its bottom and put insulation (ordinary glass wool will do), and cover it with a galvanized sheet on top.

The heat exchanger is manufactured as follows:

1. You should purchase metal tubes: thin-walled and thick-walled.
2. In thick-walled pipes, holes must be made along the diameter of thin pipes with a pitch of no more than 45 mm. They are drilled on one side. Of course, a solar collector made by yourself will require time to prepare not only the necessary material, but also the tools.
3. At this stage, the tubes should be securely fastened in the holes and secured by welding.
4. The constructed structure is fixed on a galvanized sheet located on the box.
5. The next step is to paint the collector box black. It is advisable to only paint the bottom dark, and leave the remaining parts light, since it is the bottom that will absorb the sun's rays.
6. Then the cover glass is installed, maintaining a distance of at least 1 cm between it and the tubes.
7. Any sealed container can serve as a storage tank for the collector. Its volume can reach 400 liters (minimum 150 liters).
8. The next stage is the manufacture of the fore-chamber. This can be a container of up to 40 liters, a tap is installed on it, and it is this device that will supply water.
9. To avoid heat loss, it is necessary to thoroughly insulate the tank and the collector itself.

Assembling the device

Now we need to finally assemble it into a single whole. Assembly is carried out in several stages:

1. Installation of the drive and front camera. An important condition is that the liquid in the reservoir must be 80 mm below the level in the front chamber.
2. Placement of the collector in a prepared place. You can do this on the roof. It is necessary to maintain a tilt angle of 35-40 degrees, installing the element on the south side.
3. To minimize heat loss, a distance of at least 50 cm should be maintained between the heat exchanger and the storage tank.
4. The storage tank should be located above the collector and below the anterior chamber.

The most important stage remains - connecting to the system.

To do this, you need to fill the system with water, adjust its quantity, and make sure there are no leaks. If all conditions are met, such a collector can be used daily.

Such a DIY solar collector for heating will save a lot of money. Water heating systems based on a solar collector can be divided according to the type of water circulation.

Natural water circulation

With such a circulation system, the storage tank is located above the collector. According to natural laws, the water heats up and flows upward into the tank. In this case, cold water is displaced, it flows down and enters the collector. There it heats up and rises again. A tank of this design can be equipped with only two hoses: for supplying cold water and discharging hot water. Such a system is suitable for small country needs - a summer kitchen or shower.

Forced

Such a system does not depend on where the collector or storage tank is located. Water circulates in such a system thanks to an additionally supplied pump. Due to the fact that the installation of an electric pump is required, the cost of the collector increases. This increases productivity.

Along with flat and vacuum devices, it is possible to create an airborne solar collector with your own hands. Its design is much simpler than that of a water one, but its main drawback is significant - it cannot transfer all the accumulated heat. Air is a much worse conductor of heat than water.

It is impossible to say unequivocally which collector is better to choose. Everything will depend on where it will be applied and what level of efficiency is needed in a particular case. But it will help to make a choice by comparing the positive qualities and disadvantages of each type according to the following parameters:

Benefit from solar cell

There are advantages to installing a collector, but in each individual case there will be more or less of them. Main general advantages:

• Saving artificially produced resources.
• Refusal of artificial resources completely. This can be done if we are talking about low consumption.
• Savings on the purchase of ready-made equipment, with the possibility of installing the collector yourself from available materials.
• Independence from general heating networks. If there is no possibility of connecting to the central highway, solar collectors are a good replacement.

If the house is large and a sufficient number of people live in it, a complete rejection of artificial resources is impossible, but reducing them and saving on this is a completely feasible task.

Do-it-yourself solar collector: types, operating principles and photos

The use of solar energy is no longer new. It can be used for local heating of water, for example, in a country house. Such heating can also be used for heating, but the cost of additional equipment will be quite expensive. Building a solar collector with your own hands is no longer a fantasy.